After a series of bumpy rolly nights at anchor in Isla San Francisco and Los Gatos we were really looking forward to getting into Puerto Escondito where we expected flat calm water and a couple good nights sleep. The anchorage did not dissapoint. Steep mountains to the east and good sized hills to the north, west, and south completely enclose this bay. Places like Puerto Escondito are often called Hurricane Holes because they offer 360 degrees of protection from waves as a hurricane swirls around overhead. This is the first one we’ve visited and our conclusion is that it is extremely well protected, and highly condusive to sleeping well. The only entrance is about 30′ wide and it curves, so there is essentially no fetch beyond the confines of the bay itself.
“Looking west from inside the anchorage. Still the same Sierra de Giganta mountain range, but it’s way taller and steeper here than a few miles south. Again, the photo doesn’t do it justice, these mountains are more cliff than hill and seem to tower overhead from the boat”
Our first evening at anchor we took the dinghy up to the marina area and got directions to the (one) restaurant within walking distance. After nearly three weeks on the hook cooking all of our meals we were both ready for a nice dinner we didn’t have to prepare or wash up for.
A very nice young lady pointed us to the Trapui RV park and hotel. She told us to just follow the road 10-20 minutes out of the marina complex. Since there is only one road out of here we marched out with confidence. A few minutes of walking through the isolated area sucked out some of that swagger. This place is really, really lonely. It’s also immaculately maintained with wide white roads, landscaping, and the first street lights we have seen outside a major city. It felt eerily like the rest of the human population had suddenly disappeared. We joked that we could film our zombie movie here without shutting down the road and nobody would notice.
Fortunately, Brian and I are made of tough stuff and were really hungry, so we kept going. The reward was a really nice meal and no dishes to clean up after, well worth risking zombie attack.
There is a community of boaters that use Puerto Escondito as their home base, and most afternoons they gather in the shade outside the tienda to socialize. Yesterday we sat in on the informally titled “circle of knowledge” while waiting on our laundry to dry. True to its namesake the circle offered up tidbits about good summer anchorages and details on how to anchor off the historic town of Loreto, thereby saving yourself the 800 peso ($50) taxi ride into town. Having fully embraced our inner squeaky wallets Brian and I squirreled away the anchoring instructions (go on a nice day with no north wind, don’t spend the night unless it’s dead calm). Thanks circle, and especially our new friend Jake!
“Brian with Jake, an experienced cruiser we met at circle time who generously shared his experiences summering in the Sea of Cortez”
The forecast is promising a lovely beam reach sail followed by light south winds for the next few days so tomorrow we will head back south to Agua Verde, the anchorage we skipped when the weather didn’t cooperate earlier this week. Looking forward to seeing it!